Frankfurter Gemeine Zeitung

Freiheitskampf der Apfelweinlogen

apfelwein4

Die Bierbrauer beobachteten ebenso argwöhnisch wie letztendlich machtlos den Aufstieg der Heckenwirtschaften. Sie kämpften darum, ebenfalls Apfelwein ausschenken zu dürfen, was Ihnen 1750 gestattet wurde.

Die Heckenwirtschaften hat man sich als „ausgeräumte Wohnstuben“ vorzustellen, später kam ein „Schankraum hinzu. Die Standardeinrichtung einer Heckenwirtschaft hat man sich folgendermassen vorzustellen:

Ein Schanktisch, dahinter die „Spühlbrenk“ mit Trocken- und Ablaufbrett. Auf dem Schanktisch der Faulenzer als Einschenkhilfsgerät, in dem der Bembel (auch heute noch) steht. An der Wand befand sich ein Regal mit Gläsern , Kartenspielen, Kreide und Zigarrenkisten. (…) An den Fenstern zeigten rote Vorhänge an, dass gezapft wurde. Unter dem Schanktisch befanden sich: Das Käsedibbe, Pfeffer und Salz, Essig sowie Kümmel für die Handkäs. Dazu Brot, einige Teller und Bestecke Im Raum stand ein Ofen mit langem Rohr. Auf die Ofenplatte legte die Wirtin morgens rohe, ungeschälte Kartoffeln.“ (H.P. Müller)

Spendeten zunächst Talg- und Öllampen das spärliche Licht, so waren es später Gaslampen und schließlich Glühbirnen. Ansonsten veränderte sich das Ambiente dieser Apfelweinstuben von der fühen Neuzeit bis Anfang des 20. Jahrhunderts kaum.

1876 existierten in Sachsenhausen etwa 43 Heckenwirtschaften; in Frankfurt-Stadt konzentrierten sie sich in der Alten Gasse und der Breiten Gasse, dem Wohnviertel der Frankfurter Gärtner.

Die Heckenwirte waren hauptberuflich Gärtner, Mainschiffer, Handwerker etc. und gegenüber ihrer Apfelwein-Kundschaft von einer legendären Ruppigkeit.

Gegen Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts professionalisierte sich das Gewerbe. Die Heckenwirtschaften wurden von Apfelweinkneipen abgelöst, die das ganze Jahr hindurch ausschenken; die Wirte sind Wirte, nichts weiter.

Mit dem ersten Weltkrieg begann die kurze heroische Periode des Frankfurter Apfelweinkonsums; eine verspätete Form des im 18. und 19. Jahrhundert beliebten Freimauertums zeigte sich in der Stadt. Der preußisch dominierte Staat betrachtete Äpfel als kriegswichtiges Gut, aber natürlich in seiner rein nahrhaften Form, d.h. in der Konsistenz von Apfelgelee etc. Die Produktion von Apfelwein wurde verboten. Die Frankfurter unterliefen das vaterländische Gebot und gründeten private „Apfelweinlogen“. Unter hochgemuten Namen wie „Stark im Recht“, „Freitagsgesellschaft“, „Schillerloge“ etc. vertraten die Logen in schwieriger Zeit die Sache der Freiheit, sich privat zu treffen und schwarzgekelterten Apfelwein zu trinken. Was die apfelweintrinkenden Logenbrüder nicht wußten: Sie konnten sich dem schwäbischen Dichterfürsten Schiller nicht nur aufgrund seines Freiheitspathos nahe fühlen. Thomas Mann hat berichtet, dass Schiller in seinem Schreibpult einen Apfel verfaulen ließ, um sich durch die Gärungsgase zu inspirieren.

Nach Ende des nächsten Weltkrieges standen die Apfelweinwirtschaften vor gänzlich anderen Problemen. Viele der traditonellen Wirtschaften waren in den Flammen des Bombenkrieges zugrunde gegangen. Oft fanden sich nur schwer Nachfolger. Den Rest besorgten einerseits die Brauereien, die aufgrund ihrer ökonomischen Potenz überall im Gaststättengewerbe die Pachtvergabe monopolisierten und die Apfelweinkneipen verdrängten, andererseits der auf Spekulationen basierende Modernisierungswille der 60er und 70er Jahre, dem insgesamt die kärglichen ?berreste des ehemaligen Frankfurt fast gänzlich zum Opfer fielen. Alt-Sachsenhausen wurde „resopalisiert“ und in einen Kulissen-Stadtteil verwandelt.

Frank Gotta klagte in seinem das Loblied des Apfelweins anstimmenden Buch „Aus einem goldenen Apfel“ 1979:

Häufig tragen die Wirte auch selbst die Schuld am Untergang der Apfelweinkultur. Im vermeintlichen Glauben mit der Zeit gehen zu müssen, haben sie (…) die Räume auf modern umgemodelt, oder üppig erweitert und ausgebaut. Die Ergebnisse in glattem Kunststoff und nachgemachtem Schmiedehandwerk sind bedeutende Beispiele extremer Geschmacksverirrung. Synthetik-Design auf altdeutsch zum Lachen. (…) Natürlich kann man mit der Zeit gehen, aber ist es dazu nötig, die alten Bäume im Hof zu fällen, um in Betonschalen Geranien zu pflanzen? Oder muss man dazu unbedingt die Balken aus der Decke brechen und sie durch Atrappen ersetzen, oder die Holzverkleidung lösen, um die Wand reinlich zu verputzen?“.

Inzwischen ist diese Entwicklung gestoppt. Möglicherweise hatte sogar die artifizielle Ghettoisierung Alt-Sachsenhausens einen paradox-positiven Effekt auf die Erhaltung der Frankfurter Apfelweinkultur. Indem das Viertel den Apfelweintourismus fast gänzlich auf sich konzentrierte, blieben traditionellen Apfelweinlokale an anderer Stelle weitgehend unversehrt. .


281 Kommentare zu “Freiheitskampf der Apfelweinlogen”

  1. Trinker

    Ist doch klar, dass Apfelwein kein Wein ist ! Deshalb muß man ihn aber nicht verunglimpfen. Apfelwein drückt noch eine örtliche Bodenständigkeit gegen die Wein-Globalisierung im Geiste Mondavis aus. Das zeigt auf der berühmte russische Apfelwein. Vielleicht hängt die Abkopplung Rußlands aber daran, dass es keinen Wein hat. China baut Wein an, Indien auch – von Apfelwein ist dort nichts zu hören.
    Die Bindung an das Lokale sieht man auch daran, dass man im Web Apfelwein kaum über große Shops beziihen kann, nur über lokale Keltereien. Oder ?

  2. Landloper

    Lassen wir den Russen doch ihren Wein in Dagestan und den Frankfurtern ihre 1,3 Hektar Rebfläche am Lohrberger Hang.

  3. Landloper

    @Julia Fortkamp

    Kannst du meinem Gedächtnis etwas aufhelfen?

    Etwa 1966/67 habe ich nicht weit vom Club Voltaire, den ich damals ab und zu besuchte, eine Apfelweinkneipe frequentiert, von der ich weder Namen noch genaue Lage in Erinnerung habe. Die Kneipe muss es heute nicht mehr geben. Es war ein sehr einfaches Lokal mit Holztischen und anspruchslosen Gästen. Es kann freilich inzwischen auch aufgemöbelt worden sein. Hast du eine Idee?

    Beste Grüße

  4. Julia Fortkamp

    Ich weiss nicht genau, ob da helfen kann, da ich 1968 weder in Frankfurt, noch überhaupt Apfelwein getrunken habe, vermute aber, dass es sich um Apfelwein-Klaus handelt.
    http://www.apfelweinklaus.de/

  5. Landloper

    Danke, Julia, es war kein Kellerlokal.
    Erst kürzlich bin ich anlässlich der Botticelloausstellung in Frankfurt gewesen, habe aber nicht an dieses Lokal gedacht, sondern das Westend besucht, wo ich mal gewohnt habe. Naja.

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