Frankfurter Gemeine Zeitung

Kurze Berührung zweier Pole

Kinshasa-2

Imaginationen über Zentralafrika drehen sich bei Mitteleuropäern gerne um Kurz´ Grauen, das vor über 100 Jahren an die belgischen Gräuel um den Fluß Kongo herum erinnert. “Kongo” ergänzt Joseph Konrads “Herz der Finsternis” um drei weitere Wahrnehmungsraster, mit denen wir diese seltsame Gegend betrachten. Die Ökofreunde schauen gerne die netten Gorillas, Schimpansen und Waldelefanten im Fernsehen an, die meist von wagemutigen Amerikanern im undurchdringlichen, zweitgrößten Regenwald der Welt abgefilmt werden. Wohlfeile Empörung stößt kurz bei uns auf, wenn wir Nachricht oder Doku von den Massakern rund um die Rohstoffe im Osten Kongos rezipieren, Rohstoffe, nach denen wir gleichwohl unablässig gieren. Etwas vom alltäglichen afrikanischen Grauen kommt in die Stube bei Bildern aus dem urbanen Moloch im Westen, der Hauptstadt Kinshasa, mit fast 10 Millionen Einwohnern beherbergt sie eines der größten Slums der Erde.

Touristen vom Frankfurter Flughafen bewegen sich nie dort hin, die Angst ist gar groß, die Stadt bedrohlich, wie das Auge des Orkans im Zentrum Afrikas. Vor Jahren wagte sich aber eine mutige, sicherheitshalber schwerbewaffnete Kompanie der Bundeswehr zur “Wahlbeobachtung” nach Kinshasa, verbarrikadierte sich ein paar Monate in einer selbstgebauten Festung und verlies die schützende Einrichtung nur selten, wenn dann begleitet von einem dokumentierenden deutschen Fernsehteam. Die Bewohner drum herum bemerkten die tapferen Deutschen kaum, auch nicht die Hundettausenden von Kindern, Kranken, Behinderten und Kriegsversehrten, die in der Nachbarschaft auf der Strasse leben. Und das ist ein Stadtleben, von dem man sich am anderen Weltpol, der auch in Frankfurt liegt, wenig praktische Vorstellung macht.

benda bilili

Klare Vorstellungen haben wir an unserem Erdpol aber davon, wen und was wir über die Grenze reinlassen: den Rohstoff für unsere Handys gerne, die armen Hungerleider, gar kranke Migranten auf keinen Fall.

Eine ganz seltene Ausnahme von diesen Regeln konnte Frankfurt letzte Woche erfahren, als nämlich am Dienstag die Musikertruppe “Staff Benda Bilili” im Palmengarten die Power vorführte, die in den Strassen Kinshasas verborgen liegt. Ihr Name ist Programm, denn er meint, dass die Protagonisten “das Verborgene sichtbar” machen möchten. Die 8 Musiker arbeiten mit dem Rumba Kongos als Troubadoure der Slums Kinshasas, möchten die Bewegungen des Alltags dort als Journalisten erkunden und ihre Psychogeografie hörbar machen, erklingen lassen.  Der Frankfurter Pol könnte jetzt mit einigem Neid resümieren, dass Staff Benda Bilili wirkliche Journalisten sind, denn unsere hier verstärken zu oft bloß das bereits Sichtbare, das allzu Bekannte.

staff-benda-bilili-stimme-der-stummen-massen-im-kongo

Ihnen wurde die Überquerung der EU-Grenzen erlaubt. Noch erstaunlicher: die Musiker und Berichterstatter sind Behinderte und Jugendliche, eine Alterspanne zwischen 17 und 55, auf der Bühne in Rollstühlen, mit Instrumenten aus Blechresten, die zusammen fast in einem einzigen Koffer im Flugzeug unterzubringen sind. Es sei gewarnt, es war kein Betroffenheitskonzert: fast 2 Stunden entwickeln Staff Benda Bilili auf der Bühne eine unglaubliche Dynamik, mit atemberaubenden Stimmen, dem Kreischen der selbstgebauten Blechgitarre und bei ihrem Tanz mithüpfenden Rollstühlen. Das Palmengartenpublikum ist hingerissen, am Ende tanzen gleich Hunderte mit.

Staff Benda Bilili ist von hier aus zu wünschen, dass ihre politische und kulturelle Arbeit in Kinshasa, im Kongo viele Früchte trägt, wir können davon lernen, von Stadt zu Stadt.


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