Frankfurter Gemeine Zeitung

Von Frankfurt nach Lesbos – Krise auf der Insel?

Von Frankfurter Flughafen bis zur griechischen “Urlaubsinsel” Lesbos, direkt vor der türkischen Küste braucht es nur ein paar Stunden. Eine kleine Erkundung vor Ort im dem Land der EU, das am meisten ökonomisch, politisch und sozial in Mitleidenschaft gezogen wird.

Die Insel scheint von der Krise nicht allzu sehr betroffen – auf den ersten Blick – sie ist in weiten Teilen nicht auf die Monokultur des Massentourismus eingerichtet und man ist bemüht, ein ungetrübtes Bild zu präsentieren, um die verbleibenden Gäste nicht auch noch zu verschrecken, besonders nicht jenen Teil, der noch über das nötige Geld verfügt, sich eben das Nicht-Pauschale leisten zu können.

Alles wirkt sorgsam gepflegt und man ist geneigt, diese Oberfläche zu akzeptieren, kommt sie doch den eigenen Erwartungen entgegen. Überhaupt scheint man hier bemüht, die Vorstellungen zu konservieren, die so bezüglich griechischer Inseln in Umlauf sind, womit sie sich wohltuend von anderen Regionen abhebt. In der Hauptstadt der Insel gibt es eine Universität mit etwa 5000 Studierenden und entsprechend vielen Graffiti antifaschistischen Inhalts, die das Strassenbild prägen.

Neu ist allerdings, dass die Schilder nun auch ihre Anpreisungen auf türkisch ausstellen, was vor einigen Jahren noch undenkbar gewesen ist. Man hat einen kleinen Grenzverkehr eröffnet, wohl um einem Ausbleiben von Touristen aus Mitteleuropa vorzubeugen vor allem aber um den Rückgang bei den eigenen Leuten einigermassen auszugleichen, denn mit dem Schnellboot sind es gerade mal 1 1/2 Stunden. Allerdings gelten die Reisebestimmungen nur für die Türken, die das entsprechende Kleingeld vorweisen können. An Markttagen kann man dann auch überall türkisch als vorherrschendem Idiom begegnen.

Direktflüge aus Mitteleuropa gibt es nur vereinzelt und auch vornehmlich zu den jeweiligen Ferienzeiten, in der Regel fliegen die Besucher auch in der Saison Linie. Man benötigt schon etwas Urlaubsgeld, denn die Insel ist nicht gerade billig, selbst hier produziertes ist davon nicht ausgenommen, man orientiert sich halt an Preisen, die in den Touristenzentren üblich, für den Rest aber auf Dauer nicht erschwinglich sind.
Für viele Ansässige war die Eröffnung eines Lidl-Marktes so eine willkommene Alternative., die Teuerung etwas erträglicher zu gestalten.

Auffällig allerdings ist, dass offenbar die halbe Insel zum Verkauf angeboten wird, an vielen Läden hängt „zu vermieten“ oder sie stehen einfach leer. Halbfertige Bauten zieren viele Dörfer. Die Preisvorstellungen zeugen von dem Versuch, die Immobilien-Hype noch mitzunehmen, was jedoch auf wenig Kaufinteresse stösst. Dies wird an den vielen Korrekturen der Preise auf den Angeboten ersichtlich. Es stellt mehr den Versuch dar, noch schnell etwas für die Rücklage in die Tasche zu bekommen, um so lange überwintern zu können, bis die Krise vorüber ist, dabei ist jetzt schon klar, dass solche Illusionen nicht lange währen. Längst ziehen die Kinder mit deren Kindern wieder zurück und ein Geschäft, das bislang zwei oder drei Menschen zu ernähren hatte, muss heute die dreifache Menge ernähren.

In Gesprächen wird schnell deutlich, dass es nur eine Frage der Zeit ist, bis die Austeritätspolitik auch an diesen Gestaden voll durchschlägt. Wenn auch stets versichert wird, dass die Saison zufriedenstellend gelaufen ist, wird doch zugleich vermerkt, dass sie sich verkürzt hat und mehr Münder zu stopfen sind, Zuversicht sieht etwas anders aus.

Die Berichte aus den grösseren Städten – jeder hat Verwandte dort – lassen das Ausmass der Verarmung im Land näher kommen. Allein in Athen sind mehr als 10 % der Bevölkerung auf Gemeinschaftsküchen angewiesen, die Einschnitte im Sozialbereich sind sowieso überall gleichermassen zu spüren. Medikamente gibt es nur noch gegen Cash.

Dabei schneiden die ländlichen Regionen durchwegs besser ab, da hier noch Ausweichmöglichkeiten bestehen und sich auch wieder der unmittelbare Tausch regt. Sowieso hat hier fast jeder seinen kleinen Gemüsegarten. Die Differenz vor der Krise zu in der Krise ist nicht besonders augenfällig, die Situation war nie besonders gut.

Jeder überlegt sich, ob er längerfristig investiert oder nicht lieber irgendetwas verkauft, bis auf die, die die nächste Saison mit ihren Erwartungen füllen und wenigstens den Standard halten wollen.

Die Hoffnung stirbt eben auch hier zuletzt.


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