Hinsehen mit leichtem Schauern: Wegsehenswürdigkeiten in Frankfurt
Das kleine Frankfurt ist stolz darauf, sich als einzige deutsche Stadt zu den „Alpha Cities“ der Welt zählen zu dürfen, auf der Liste steht es gar noch vor Addis Abeba. Das ist in Ostafrika, in der Nähe des Ursprungs der Menschheit, hat dreieinhalb Millionen Einwohner oder ein, zwei Millionen mehr.
Frankfurt ist bloß in Hessen, sehr weit weg von menschlichen Ursprüngen, eher bekannt wegen zweier hochmoderner Installationen. Sie sind die Ursache der meisten Aufenthalte am Main, ausserhalb des Stadtgebiets oder weit weg von der Stadt gelegen. Es sind unansehliche Transitorte, die Daten, Flieger und vieles andere dazu auffordern, Frankfurt möglichst schnell zu verlassen: nämlich die Deutsche Börse AG in Eschborn und der Fraport hinter dem Stadtwald.
Die Stadt, die neben dem DAX gelegentlich noch gedruckte Bücher zelebriert, und aus der eine „negative Dialektik“ des Philosophen Adorno stammt, kann damit elegant umgehen. Aus ihr wird jetzt sogar ein Buch zu „Frankfurter Wegsehenswürdigkeiten“ angeboten, deren buchstäbliche Negative Dialektik zu beschreiben eine Phalanx von 40 Autor*innen in, vor und neben der Stadt aufmarschiert.
Stefan Geyer und Jürgen Roth, selbst zwei alte Frankfurter Buchprofis, bewegten Eckhard Henscheid und Eva Demski, Andreas Maier und Oliver Maria Schmitt und viele andere mehr, uns mit voller Verve zu offenbaren, wie Frankfurt ein ganz neues Alleinstellungsmerkmal im Städtewettbewerb kultiviert: und zwar bemerkenswerte Orte und Dinge am Main, bei deren Vorstellung sich empfindsamere Bewohner wie unter Schmerzen zu winden beginnen.
Und davon gibt es eine Menge neben Eisernen Steg und Senckenberganlage, Römer und Museumsufer, denen sich das Buch mit kleinen Essays oder Parabeln, historischen Erinnerungen und Gedichten behutsam nähert, garniert mit aktuellen Fotos, die das Grauen in wohliges Schaudern übersetzen.
Mit Wegsehenswürdigkeiten sind altgediente Plätze wie der Roßmarkt und die B-Ebene an der Hauptwache gemeint, oder wirklich sinnfreie Neuanlagen wie das Europaviertel und die Hansaallee, die Gestaltungsideen der schwarz-grünen Kommune einigermaßen plastisch machen. Dabei bleibt es nicht, denn Frankfurt geriert sich stadtpolitisch recht kreativ, wenn es um schlichtes Aufsehen geht. Klar, wer vor der neuen EZB auf alter Industriebrache in eine Gastwirtschaft „am Fluß“ möchte, bekommt bloß ein hohles Abziehbild von Öffentlichkeit, das zwischen Türmen aus Eigentumswohnungen und ausgestopftem Werkkran ein unvermeidliches Publikum besetzt. Der Befund versteht sich vor diesem Stadtpanorama ganz von selbst. Aber es hat was, eben würdig zum Wegsehen.
Überhaupt die Kneipen, die Touri Locations, in denen der legendäre Apfelwein in gerippten Gläsern ausgeschenkt wird: grundmuffige Kellner oder erfrorener Handkäs bis zum Abwinken beleben Aufenthalte erst richtig. Die Autoren zeigen uns einige echte Highlights solchen Lokalkolorits. Beim Sightseeing (gerne mit Bus- oder Rikschakopien aus echten Großstädten) kommen wir gewöhnlich noch an Schlipsskulpturen und MyZeils vorbei. Sie bieten uns Nichtorte, die den Mutterwitz eines Consultants von McKinsey verkörpern, also schrecklich wenig.
Mit anderen Worten, das Büchlein transportiert tatsächlich viel dessen, was das Klima in der Stadt, am Boden, auf dem Bürgersteig und dahinter jetzt, im Jahre 2014 ausmacht, in dem Frankfurt am Main, dessen bekanntes Institut für Philosophie direkt neben dem House of Finance residiert, und für dessen Studierende als Horizont bloß noch das Bankenviertel fungiert.
Deshalb muß es nicht beim ersten Panorama stehen bleiben, das Potential Frankfurter Wegsehenswürdigkeiten ist gewaltig. Dem Schlußwort der Autoren der sensiblen Untersuchung möchte ich bedenkenlos zustimmen: „In diesem Sinne fehlen hier halt doch zumindest die Grie Soß´, die Frankfurter Grünen und die Grünschnäbel in der seit geraumer Zeit dito grausigen Gerbermühle.“
Frankfurter Wegsehenswürdigkeiten, 223 Seiten, 14,90 Euro, Verlag Waldemar Kramer, Wiesbaden 2014
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